Bali is a criss crossed with roads of varying quality. Many tourists as well as expats stick to the main roads and sometimes miss out on some spectacular scenery. It can be tempting to get off of the main road and go exploring, but also worrying for someone not familiar with Bali and on a short time frame. The thing you have to figure out is what roads will lead to great things, but are also navigable and suitable for cars. Fear not, help is at hand in the form of a widely sold map.
The Periplus map of Bali is one of the most common maps used here, easily identifiable by its yellow and red cover. With a single map covering the whole of Bali, Area Maps of South Bali, Kuta Area & Legian Area, Sanur, Ubud Area, Nusa Dua & Tanjung Benoa, Lovina, and City Plans of Denpasar, Klungkung, Candidasa, Singaraja and Gianyar, the map covers a lot.
Roads are detailed using different colors on the main map (thick orange for the Bypass Ngurah Rai, light orange for main roads connecting towns, white for secondary roads and grey for the tiny local backroads. Looking at the white colored roads one thing stands out to me, they are all great routes with lovely scenery, not heavily touristy and driveable with good road surfaces. Some of these white roads are my favourite routes in Bali. They include:
•Klungkung to Selat via Sideman
•Kintamani to Rendang via Suter
•Candi Kuning to Kintamani (Pura Tegeh Koripan) via Petang and Catur.
•Ubud to Kintamani via Sayan and Payangan.
•Rendang to Bangli via Bangbang and Tembuku
•Kintamini to Bondalem via Dausa
•Lake Buyan to Mayong via Munduk
All these routes are awesome, easy to find and to drive. There are others too marked in white and they are all winners. You can pick up a Periplus map at Bintang supermarket in Seminyak and bookstores including Periplus at Made’s Warung Seminyak, Carrefour and Discovery Shopping Mall.
One of the most pleasant rides I did recently was a trip to Kintamani via Ubud, Sayan, Payangan. This fairly straight route is a 40km shot up to the crater. Stopping on the way to get my fleece on, the blue skies and cold mountian feeling refreshing, I passed rice fields, fmaily temples and an array of village life in action. At the crater rim a right turn circled the SW edge, with magnificent views of Lake Batur, Gunung Batur and the sweeping scenery outside the crater.
Following the route around led to Penelokan, site of the highest density of tourist restaurants. Bright sunny weather meant this Sunday was busy with Balinese locals, the scene at Penelokan obviously the place to be seen if you are from that area. Looking at a map of the area one will see many main roads leading south from the Batur crater, but by passing Penelokan and hooking a sharp left, one will immediately be on a lovely narrow, forested route affording views of the inside of the crater overlooking the southern part of Lake Batur.
This route leaves the crater rim after 4 kms and heads south to Rendang. The whole way is forested with views of Gunung Agung, clear this last weekend, off to the left. Several kms south of the village of Rendang, there is a right hand (westward) turnoff for Bangli. This little route is super cool, with twists and turns, hairpin brends and unspoilt landscapes. You will reach Bangli after another 12kms. Road conditions on this entire rooute are good and an SUV will have no trouble making it, although my preferred mode of transport would be a slow cruise on motorbike. ()
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Nusa Lembongan Bali
Thinking of going to Nusa Lembongan this weekend. Seems reasonable seeing as I haven’t been there before. Nusa Lembongan is one of the places in Bali I can’t ride my bike to.
Nusa Lembongan in the smallest of the 3 islands situated across the Badung Strait to the SE. It is a center for surfing with 3 breaks (Shipwrecks, Playgrounds and Lacerations) and is also a diving spot.
Items needed when staying in local guest houses in Bali. Having stayed in local guest houses in East and West Bali in the last couple of weeks, my memories of backpack travel have been restored. Cold water showers, bamboo walls, flimsy doors and mosquitoes are all part of the experience. Added to the usual stuff in my bag (spare clothes, map, penknife, moneybelt etc.) I take a packet of mosquiotes coils, a lighter and a couple of candles. Many of the cheaper bamboo style losmans (guest houses) give you a small lock for the door to your room. There is a Master lock under my motorbike seat, which is chunkier than those locks.
Dealing with the shortcomings of local guest houses isn’t a big deal, but remembering to take a few extra bits and pieces can make life easier. A flashlight is always handy, as is a sink stopper. Towels are sometimes provided, sometime not. Mosquito net are usually aprt of the deal, but in my opinion its also good to smoke out your room with a coil and use a fan, as just one mozzie can make life unpleasant. Bring your own soap too, as some of the older guest houses still have shared bathrooms.
Nusa Lembongan has 20 or so places to stay, ranging from budget guest houses to the Waka Nusa Resort in Mushroom Bay, probably the best place on the island. According to Rough Guides, Linda Bungalows (0812/360 0867) and Nusa Indah (0366)24480, both budget guest houses, are good value.
Getting to Nusa Lembongan is easy with a range of boat options. Local boats sail from Sanur, Kusamba and the port of Benoa (Bounty Cruise). Luxury boat operators will get you out to Nusa Lembongan on one of package deals that includes lunch, snorkeling and maybe an overnight stay. Prices vary wildy, with the local boats from Sanur charging 40,000-50,000rp and the luxury outfits charging $50-$90. Charter boats are aslo available but they tend to be small and not super safety oriented.
Perama also does a boat to Nusa Lembongan, which must be booke the day before. The boat leaves from Sanur (end of Jl. Hang Tuah) at 10.30am each day and arrives at Jungutbatu at 12-12.30pm. ()
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Nusa Lembongan in the smallest of the 3 islands situated across the Badung Strait to the SE. It is a center for surfing with 3 breaks (Shipwrecks, Playgrounds and Lacerations) and is also a diving spot.
Items needed when staying in local guest houses in Bali. Having stayed in local guest houses in East and West Bali in the last couple of weeks, my memories of backpack travel have been restored. Cold water showers, bamboo walls, flimsy doors and mosquitoes are all part of the experience. Added to the usual stuff in my bag (spare clothes, map, penknife, moneybelt etc.) I take a packet of mosquiotes coils, a lighter and a couple of candles. Many of the cheaper bamboo style losmans (guest houses) give you a small lock for the door to your room. There is a Master lock under my motorbike seat, which is chunkier than those locks.
Dealing with the shortcomings of local guest houses isn’t a big deal, but remembering to take a few extra bits and pieces can make life easier. A flashlight is always handy, as is a sink stopper. Towels are sometimes provided, sometime not. Mosquito net are usually aprt of the deal, but in my opinion its also good to smoke out your room with a coil and use a fan, as just one mozzie can make life unpleasant. Bring your own soap too, as some of the older guest houses still have shared bathrooms.
Nusa Lembongan has 20 or so places to stay, ranging from budget guest houses to the Waka Nusa Resort in Mushroom Bay, probably the best place on the island. According to Rough Guides, Linda Bungalows (0812/360 0867) and Nusa Indah (0366)24480, both budget guest houses, are good value.
Getting to Nusa Lembongan is easy with a range of boat options. Local boats sail from Sanur, Kusamba and the port of Benoa (Bounty Cruise). Luxury boat operators will get you out to Nusa Lembongan on one of package deals that includes lunch, snorkeling and maybe an overnight stay. Prices vary wildy, with the local boats from Sanur charging 40,000-50,000rp and the luxury outfits charging $50-$90. Charter boats are aslo available but they tend to be small and not super safety oriented.
Perama also does a boat to Nusa Lembongan, which must be booke the day before. The boat leaves from Sanur (end of Jl. Hang Tuah) at 10.30am each day and arrives at Jungutbatu at 12-12.30pm. ()
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A Balinese Folktale: Kaki Tua
Kaki Tua (old man) had a fine fat cow which he was very proud of. He refused to lend her when the village wanted to borrow her for the work in the rice fields. One day, the cow strayed into the garden of Bedag, and began eating up his plants. He tried to kill her but he only succeeded in wounding her. The villagers heard of it, and again asked Kaki tua to lend his cow, just to tease him. This time he consented and went to look for her, but she was nowhere to be found. The people said they heard a great thud in Bedag garden; perhaps it was the cow falling down. And sure enough, Kaki Tua did find the cow lying there wounded. He asked the people to help him, and after three tries they managed to get her on her feet. Then they said a charm over her, and this was the song they sand as the charm:
Tinkle-tinkle goes Samplangan’s bell, all set with rubies.
Here comes Ida Bagus Nyoman and sits cross-legged.
The white horse goes trot-trot along the beach.
After that the cow was able to stand up properly. They took her to bathe in the river, and the cow drank to much water, swelled and died. Kaki Tua was furious and beat the villagers till they cried for mercy. ‘I will forgive you, if you find the man who wounded my cow.’ So they promised.
They met Bedag on the road and bound his hands and brought him along. The kris with which the cow was wounded was given to Kaki Tua, but just as he was about to strike they let Bedag loosed. Kaki Tua was frightened, and ran away, and Bedag was after him. Kaki Tua called the people to catch his enemy, and promised to spare his life if the cow is brought to life again, Bedag promised, and brought a balian (witch doctor). Suitable offering are made: fruit, rice cakes and spitted mosquitoes. In the middle of his prayer the balian became possessed and said that the offering was not enough. ‘What more must there be?’ ‘baris tumbak’, said the possessed witch doctor, baris is danced, and he resumed his prayer. Again he became possessed. ‘there must be a Rejang’, rejang is danced. More prayer, more trance. This time Gandrung performance was ordered. After this the prayer went off smoothly and the cow is brought to life. (BaliWWW)
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Tinkle-tinkle goes Samplangan’s bell, all set with rubies.
Here comes Ida Bagus Nyoman and sits cross-legged.
The white horse goes trot-trot along the beach.
After that the cow was able to stand up properly. They took her to bathe in the river, and the cow drank to much water, swelled and died. Kaki Tua was furious and beat the villagers till they cried for mercy. ‘I will forgive you, if you find the man who wounded my cow.’ So they promised.
They met Bedag on the road and bound his hands and brought him along. The kris with which the cow was wounded was given to Kaki Tua, but just as he was about to strike they let Bedag loosed. Kaki Tua was frightened, and ran away, and Bedag was after him. Kaki Tua called the people to catch his enemy, and promised to spare his life if the cow is brought to life again, Bedag promised, and brought a balian (witch doctor). Suitable offering are made: fruit, rice cakes and spitted mosquitoes. In the middle of his prayer the balian became possessed and said that the offering was not enough. ‘What more must there be?’ ‘baris tumbak’, said the possessed witch doctor, baris is danced, and he resumed his prayer. Again he became possessed. ‘there must be a Rejang’, rejang is danced. More prayer, more trance. This time Gandrung performance was ordered. After this the prayer went off smoothly and the cow is brought to life. (BaliWWW)
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Muran Teruna Ceremony
In accordance with Usaba Sambah series of ceremony (a month-long series of ceremonies which is held in the fifth month of Tenganan calendar) that is held in the ancient village of Tenganan, a special ceremony for the youth known as Muran Teruna is held. This ceremony is held once every three years which includes several of activities conduct by the youths of three sub-villages in Tenganan.
The word “muran teruna” consists of the word “muran” which derived from the word “uran” means “participant of activity” and the word “teruna” which means “youth.” In the Muran Teruna ceremony, each sub-village sends its maidens to be chosen by its own bachelors as a partner to participate in the series of the ceremonies which will last until late at night.
The ceremony usually begins late in the afternoon with gifts exchange between the three sub-village of Tenganan (Patemu Kaja, Patemu Tengah, and Patemu Kelod). The main gift is called “Bungan Base” or “flower of Base plant.” It is a kind of decoration made of beautifully cut young coconut leaves with flower and butterfly-shaped gold decoration on the top. The additional gift is a kind traditional food placed on banana leaf. After give exchange ceremony is over, the bungan base is placed in front of the sub-village meeting hall with other additional decoration such as mirror or lion statue.
The ceremony is continued with “matabuh” activity in which two bachelor spill a small amount of liquor to the ground accompanied by Selonding orchestra. After the patabuhan ceremony is over, the bachelors and the maidens gather in their respective sub-village meeting hall, two representations of the bachelor party give a present of small amount of liquor to the representations of the maiden party who seated on the swing which is erected near the meeting hall, the maiden representations receive the gift and drink it ceremoniously and spill the rest of the liquor to the ground.
After this, the bachelors sit in a row on the ground in front of the meeting hall. The bachelors are given a small amount of liquor to be drunk, after drinking the liquor the bachelors unsheathe their respective Kris and hold it in front of their chests still in cross-legged sitting position. The maidens are also given a small amount of liquor to be drunk ceremoniously and a small offering is put on each maidens crown then the maidens go up inside the meeting hall and stand there.
One by one, after giving a present of offering to an official the maidens step down to the ground and dance the abuang dance in turn accompanied by selonding orchestra. They dance in front of the decorations which are placed in front of the meeting hall, when the dance is over the maiden retreat to left side of the decoration, watching their friend performance. When the abuang dance session is over, the bachelor sheathe their kris and stand up, then the maidens stand in a row on the left side of the decoration and the bachelor stand on the right side.
Two representations of the maidens go to the swings and sit there and two representations of the bachelors stand on the either side of the swings. They perform a symbolic swinging activity three times, and then they retreat to their respective line. Then the maidens and the bachelors walk circling the grand swing and the decoration in opposite direction. After circling the swing and the decorations three times they move to another meeting hall to perform exactly the same series of ritual except the exchange of the gifts.
Since there are three meeting halls, there will be three groups of youth (each group consist of a band of maidens and a band of bachelors). Each group perform the first series of ceremonies in its respective meeting hall for example the patemu kaja group hold the first series of ceremonies in its own meeting hall and the second series of the ceremonies in the patemu tengah meeting hall, and the third series in the patemu kelod; the patemu tengah group also hold the first ceremony in its own meeting hall and the second and the third series of ceremonies in other groups meeting halls. The groups swap the place so each group will perform the series of the ceremonies in three meeting hall.
There are also several branches of various fruit plants complete with their fruits called “tetubuhan” planted in each meeting hall as a gift for the group of maidens and bachelors from other meeting halls to be picked.
After the groups of maidens and bachelors finish their performance in other meeting halls, the come back to their respective meeting hall and hold a meeting (pesangkepan) there as the conclusion of the Muran Teruna series of ceremony. (BaliWWW)
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The word “muran teruna” consists of the word “muran” which derived from the word “uran” means “participant of activity” and the word “teruna” which means “youth.” In the Muran Teruna ceremony, each sub-village sends its maidens to be chosen by its own bachelors as a partner to participate in the series of the ceremonies which will last until late at night.
The ceremony usually begins late in the afternoon with gifts exchange between the three sub-village of Tenganan (Patemu Kaja, Patemu Tengah, and Patemu Kelod). The main gift is called “Bungan Base” or “flower of Base plant.” It is a kind of decoration made of beautifully cut young coconut leaves with flower and butterfly-shaped gold decoration on the top. The additional gift is a kind traditional food placed on banana leaf. After give exchange ceremony is over, the bungan base is placed in front of the sub-village meeting hall with other additional decoration such as mirror or lion statue.
The ceremony is continued with “matabuh” activity in which two bachelor spill a small amount of liquor to the ground accompanied by Selonding orchestra. After the patabuhan ceremony is over, the bachelors and the maidens gather in their respective sub-village meeting hall, two representations of the bachelor party give a present of small amount of liquor to the representations of the maiden party who seated on the swing which is erected near the meeting hall, the maiden representations receive the gift and drink it ceremoniously and spill the rest of the liquor to the ground.
After this, the bachelors sit in a row on the ground in front of the meeting hall. The bachelors are given a small amount of liquor to be drunk, after drinking the liquor the bachelors unsheathe their respective Kris and hold it in front of their chests still in cross-legged sitting position. The maidens are also given a small amount of liquor to be drunk ceremoniously and a small offering is put on each maidens crown then the maidens go up inside the meeting hall and stand there.
One by one, after giving a present of offering to an official the maidens step down to the ground and dance the abuang dance in turn accompanied by selonding orchestra. They dance in front of the decorations which are placed in front of the meeting hall, when the dance is over the maiden retreat to left side of the decoration, watching their friend performance. When the abuang dance session is over, the bachelor sheathe their kris and stand up, then the maidens stand in a row on the left side of the decoration and the bachelor stand on the right side.
Two representations of the maidens go to the swings and sit there and two representations of the bachelors stand on the either side of the swings. They perform a symbolic swinging activity three times, and then they retreat to their respective line. Then the maidens and the bachelors walk circling the grand swing and the decoration in opposite direction. After circling the swing and the decorations three times they move to another meeting hall to perform exactly the same series of ritual except the exchange of the gifts.
Since there are three meeting halls, there will be three groups of youth (each group consist of a band of maidens and a band of bachelors). Each group perform the first series of ceremonies in its respective meeting hall for example the patemu kaja group hold the first series of ceremonies in its own meeting hall and the second series of the ceremonies in the patemu tengah meeting hall, and the third series in the patemu kelod; the patemu tengah group also hold the first ceremony in its own meeting hall and the second and the third series of ceremonies in other groups meeting halls. The groups swap the place so each group will perform the series of the ceremonies in three meeting hall.
There are also several branches of various fruit plants complete with their fruits called “tetubuhan” planted in each meeting hall as a gift for the group of maidens and bachelors from other meeting halls to be picked.
After the groups of maidens and bachelors finish their performance in other meeting halls, the come back to their respective meeting hall and hold a meeting (pesangkepan) there as the conclusion of the Muran Teruna series of ceremony. (BaliWWW)
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Rejang Dance at Tenganan
On Thursday, 6/28/2007, my boss and I had the rare opportunity to witness the Rejang dance at Banjar temple in ancient Tenganan village. Pak Mangku, the community leader of Tenganan, told us that the Rejang performance will start at 4 P.M so at 3.30 we went to the Banjar temple, but as any other areas in Bali, the concept of “punctuality” was definitely unknown here.
The dancers arrived in the temple at 5 P.M, dozens of girls in their finest attires walked slowly to the temple. The procession of these beautiful maidens was an attraction by itself; dressed in sacred gringsing clothes with gold flower crowns, and other gold accessories, bright colored sashes wrapped around their hips; these young girls walked majestically in the soft light of sunset guarded by their parents or brothers. They gathered in the middle courtyard of the Banjar temple, waited for the village’s musicians. The musicians appeared one by one in their Sunday-best clothes and took their position in the gamelan pavilion.
As soon as the musician began to play the Rejang melody; the dancers take their position in the center of middle courtyard of the temple. They stood in three lines, the younger dancers stood in the front while the older one lined up behind them. My boss and I waited patiently for the dance to begin but after 10 minutes of waiting, the dancers still did not show any sign of dancing movement, the dancers just stood still in the center of courtyard; some are playing idly with their sashes.
First, we thought that the musicians played the introducing melody but after another 10 minutes of waiting with no indications of dance movement from the dancers; we were sure that the melody was not introducing melody, it was too long for an introduction. We were puzzled, fortunately, Pak Mangku, the community leader, was around, so we asked him, ‘Pak Mangku when will the rejang begin?’ his answer was very surprising, ‘the dance is on, it’s about to finish in no time.’ The dance was finished right after Pak Mangku finished answering our question.
We were surprised; we have seen Rejang dance before in other areas of Bali, we expected to see the slow and elegance movement of Rejang, smooth movements of the feet combine with hands movements as soft as caressing breeze. But this Rejang was an exception; the dancers just stood in lines and played idly with their sashes. Pak Mangku told us that the movements of this Rejang consist of holding, lifting and dropping the sash that is wrapped around the dancer hips with the left hand. So there were movements but the moved sporadically, it was looked like the dancers were playing with their sashes. My boss told me that we always have to expect the unexpected in Tenganan, even for a Balinese.
The Rejang was finished but Pak Mangku told us to stay, a trance dance was scheduled after the Rejang dance. Five minutes later, the musicians played another melody, the Rejang dancers gathered once again in the center of the middle courtyard of the temple. Suddenly, out of nowhere, a priestess with her attendance appeared among the Rejang dancers, the entranced priestess dance hand in hand with her attendance while the Rejang dancers shouted to them. The attendant handed a tray of offering to the priestess and retreated behind the onlookers. With her eye closed and hand clutched tightly on the tray of offering the priestess danced madly in the center of the courtyard.
Suddenly, a cry was heard among the onlookers, a priest came out brandishing a kris, stepped into the center of the courtyard and danced side by side with the priestess. The entranced priest sometimes with all his strength stabbed his chest with the kris or tried to cut his hand, but no wound inflicted. The Rejang dancers shouted louder when the priest stabbed himself, the priestess kept on dancing with the tray of offering in her hand.
After stabbing himself for the third times, the priest retreated to the inner courtyard of the temple. His place was taken by another entranced priestess; the second priestess was given a tray of offering and danced side by side with the first one. After dancing for a while both of them were ushered to the inner courtyard. Unfortunately we had no opportunity to witness the performance of the entranced priest and priestesses in the inner courtyard. Soon after the priestesses were escorted to the inner courtyard the musicians played a closing melody and the “unexpected” Rejang of Tenganan was over.(BaliWWW)
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The dancers arrived in the temple at 5 P.M, dozens of girls in their finest attires walked slowly to the temple. The procession of these beautiful maidens was an attraction by itself; dressed in sacred gringsing clothes with gold flower crowns, and other gold accessories, bright colored sashes wrapped around their hips; these young girls walked majestically in the soft light of sunset guarded by their parents or brothers. They gathered in the middle courtyard of the Banjar temple, waited for the village’s musicians. The musicians appeared one by one in their Sunday-best clothes and took their position in the gamelan pavilion.
As soon as the musician began to play the Rejang melody; the dancers take their position in the center of middle courtyard of the temple. They stood in three lines, the younger dancers stood in the front while the older one lined up behind them. My boss and I waited patiently for the dance to begin but after 10 minutes of waiting, the dancers still did not show any sign of dancing movement, the dancers just stood still in the center of courtyard; some are playing idly with their sashes.
First, we thought that the musicians played the introducing melody but after another 10 minutes of waiting with no indications of dance movement from the dancers; we were sure that the melody was not introducing melody, it was too long for an introduction. We were puzzled, fortunately, Pak Mangku, the community leader, was around, so we asked him, ‘Pak Mangku when will the rejang begin?’ his answer was very surprising, ‘the dance is on, it’s about to finish in no time.’ The dance was finished right after Pak Mangku finished answering our question.
We were surprised; we have seen Rejang dance before in other areas of Bali, we expected to see the slow and elegance movement of Rejang, smooth movements of the feet combine with hands movements as soft as caressing breeze. But this Rejang was an exception; the dancers just stood in lines and played idly with their sashes. Pak Mangku told us that the movements of this Rejang consist of holding, lifting and dropping the sash that is wrapped around the dancer hips with the left hand. So there were movements but the moved sporadically, it was looked like the dancers were playing with their sashes. My boss told me that we always have to expect the unexpected in Tenganan, even for a Balinese.
The Rejang was finished but Pak Mangku told us to stay, a trance dance was scheduled after the Rejang dance. Five minutes later, the musicians played another melody, the Rejang dancers gathered once again in the center of the middle courtyard of the temple. Suddenly, out of nowhere, a priestess with her attendance appeared among the Rejang dancers, the entranced priestess dance hand in hand with her attendance while the Rejang dancers shouted to them. The attendant handed a tray of offering to the priestess and retreated behind the onlookers. With her eye closed and hand clutched tightly on the tray of offering the priestess danced madly in the center of the courtyard.
Suddenly, a cry was heard among the onlookers, a priest came out brandishing a kris, stepped into the center of the courtyard and danced side by side with the priestess. The entranced priest sometimes with all his strength stabbed his chest with the kris or tried to cut his hand, but no wound inflicted. The Rejang dancers shouted louder when the priest stabbed himself, the priestess kept on dancing with the tray of offering in her hand.
After stabbing himself for the third times, the priest retreated to the inner courtyard of the temple. His place was taken by another entranced priestess; the second priestess was given a tray of offering and danced side by side with the first one. After dancing for a while both of them were ushered to the inner courtyard. Unfortunately we had no opportunity to witness the performance of the entranced priest and priestesses in the inner courtyard. Soon after the priestesses were escorted to the inner courtyard the musicians played a closing melody and the “unexpected” Rejang of Tenganan was over.(BaliWWW)
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